Author Topic: How to take apart a dead 510 atomiser without damage to the casing.  (Read 2619 times)

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Offline Malc-P

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This is an easy method of seperating the threaded battery connector from the body of a Titan 510 atomiser without causing any damage to the casing, but it will break the wires inside.

You will need 2 dead atomisers and an 8mm drill bit (HSS or brad point, but not a masonary bit), the non-business end needs to have a flat (not tapered) end (it doesn't need to be too level, just flat).

1) Bend the first 2cm of a paperclip to roughly the circumference of a CD. Insert the bent tip of the paperclip through the centre hole at the threaded end. When it clears the plastic baffle (after 1cm) aim the tip so it is off centre (just a few mm, you don't need to touch the sidewall), and push until it touches the coil/pot/mesh assembly.
The idea now is to push the coil/pot/mesh assembly out of the other end in one piece (the assembly is not glued in but the two wires to the coil will need to be broken off by your pushing, they are quite thin). I found it easiest to inch the assembly out with lots of small pushes and to rotate the atty a quarter(ish) turn every push. The wires themselves break quite easily but the plastic insulation needs to be streched until it snaps. The remains of the wires can be twisted off with a pair of pliers afterwards.


The above picture shows the plastic baffle which is glued in from behind. It can be removed by pushing from behind with a paperclip (bend the first mm at 90 degrees so it still goes through the metal hole), working round the centre hole to break the glue seal. If you don't need to keep the baffle, or it's too melted, it can be left in for the next step (it will get broken though).
Before you start the next step you will need to repeat the above process with the second atomiser.

2) Cut the top off a cartridge condom so you are left with a wide elastic band. Stand up the atty you want to take apart (threaded end upwards). Slide the elastic band over the top. Stand the other atty on top of the first (threaded end upwards also) and slide the band up until it joins both together. Stand up the drill bit on a piece of wood (business end downward) and then place the joined attys on the drill bit (it should be a snug fit, but you should not need to force it in hard, check for debris).
Lightly tap the top of the atty with a small hammer and turn the atty every couple of taps (but not the drill bit) until the threaded connector is drifted free. If the top atty still had a bridge piece the freed connector gets rammed into it and the screw thread easily get distorted.
Repeat the above step with the bottom atty at the top, but take care to tap the top lip flat on to avoid distorting it. As the glue is brittle it comes off very cleanly, a needle or pin seems to work best.
You should now have.





 

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